Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. Step 5: Rout the Slots. from the edge. on Step 16. The first step is fixing the shelves. This will cause the unit to be correctly squared up when assembled. If you have carpeting, you'll need to pull back the carpet and pad and reinstall them later around the base of the bookcases. Cut a piece to go across the front of each shelf, and attach it. If your wall is uneven, this will make it much easier to scribe it to the wall later on. less than the depth of the bookcase itself. In-the-wall bookcases are elegant, but they can be difficult and expensive to construct. Use a wrench to turn them until the threads are all inside the bottoms of the 2x4s. Here is where it’s beginning to take shape! Use a rubber mallet to tap the rail tight. Get video instructions about kitchens, bathrooms, remodeling, flooring, painting and more. taller than the baseboard molding you plan to install to make sure the molding slips in easily. B), install a shim near the top as shown and secure the standard to the wall with a 5-1/2 in. We chose a cherry finish oil stain that we think looks rather stately. 10 years ago I'll post a pic soon to show you my divider/supports. Then glue the dentil pieces (D) to the 1x4 backer board (D2), using masking tape to hold them as the glue dries. Drill the front holes next, centered at 2-3/4 in. Part 1 (building the bases) can be found HERE. Now all is left is to fill that 3.5m x 2.5m empty wall... 10 years ago B) closer together or add another standard or two to fit a longer wall. Use at least six screws to secure the top directly to the joists (two screws at each location). Prime and paint as desired. Best decision too. I know that the rails used in this instructable aren't as appealing as having the panels line-bored, but if you have access to a CNC take advantage of it! March 14th, 2020 When we were building our new house, there were so many projects I was excited about taking on. Start by building a base out of 1x or 2x lumber. Then do the same for the remaining three interior shelves … Repeat this process for the bottom shelf. At the top of the bookcase, bridge the gap from the top of the bookcase frame and the ceiling with a piece of 1×6 ripped to the appropriate width. We made the four vertical standards and shelves from birch-veneer plywood sandwiched around ordinary 2x4s. Display your book collection in style or build your own private library. plywood to width for the case sides and shelves using a table saw or circular saw and straightedge guide. We measured our bookcase for standard 8-ft. Ceilings. Measure the depth and height of the cabinet to get the correct dimensions and sketch out a design. B. I got LOTS of BIG HEAVY books. Fasten the middle shelf in place about four feet up the sideboards, and you've put together the basic frame. How we test gear. nails that attach it to the plywood (see Fig. wide (if you don't own a table saw, have this done at the lumberyard). I also find myself wishing there was a lumber yard instead of going to Lowes or HD. Two pieces of plywood form each side of the cases. long, 17-gauge nails. Once the paint is dry, we’ll begin to add our bookshelf “towers”. Even if your 2x4s feel dry to the touch, let them dry inside the house for at least a week. The first thing I did, was screw a 1×12 directly into the ceiling. After ripping the pieces, you'll need to crosscut the tops to length. The A2 pieces don't get drilled. Next, cut the heads off the screws with a hacksaw and file a slight taper on the bottom of the protruding screw shaft near the end to help guide the pins into the holes you'll be drilling later into the floor. First, rip off the square side so the stop is 1-1/8 in. For the tall sides, space the slots about 12 to 14 in. Sorry for the very very very beginner comment, but exactly HOW did you attach the trim to the bookcase?